Snake plants are one of the best plants out there. And knowing how to make more of them without spending any extra money would be pretty cool, right?
But how do you propagate a snake plant?
Well, that depends. Do you want to use water or soil? Are you comfortable cutting the leaves? Do you have any rooting hormone? There’s a lot to think about.
If you’re looking for a simple solution then water propagation is probably your best bet. You get to see the roots as they grow without any special equipment – a glass jar will do just fine – but at the same time you still get you all the satisfaction of growing a new plant from nothing.
And thankfully propagating snake plants is surprisingly easy once you know how.
This guide to propagating snake plants will give you everything you need to grow yourself some more without spending a penny. I’ll show you how to propagate a snake plant using different methods, how long it takes, the problems you might run in to and more.
Why Propagate a Snake Plant?
Simply – because you can! Snake plants are one of the most forgiving plants to propagate. I’ve turned one snake plant I neglected for ages into seven healthy ones over a couple of years. And I like some other houseplants snake plants don’t mind being chopped up and regrown.
There are plenty of great reasons to propagate your snake plant:
- They’re getting too crowded in their current pot
- You want to share plants with friends (who doesn’t love a free plant?)
- You’ve seen a gorgeous variety at a friend’s house but don’t want to buy one
- Your plant got damaged but you can save parts of it
- You simply want more plants without spending more money
I started propagating mine after I accidentally overwatered it. Instead of getting rid of the whole thing I managed to save the healthy leaves and ended up with three new plants. That was four years ago and they’re now some of my strongest houseplants.
Methods for Propagating Snake Plants
There are three main ways to propagate a snake plant: leaf cuttings in water, leaf cuttings in soil and division. Each of them have their pros and cons and I’ve tried them all with varying levels of success.
Division – The Quickest Method
Division is probably the easiest and fastest way to get new plants.
What You’ll Need:
- A mature snake plant (ideally one that’s a bit crowded)
- Scissors or knife
- Fresh potting soil
- A few small pots
- Gloves (you don’t have to use them but it’s recommended as the edges can be sharp!)
Steps:
- Remove your snake plant from its pot. This can be tricky if it’s rootbound. If so try tapping the sides or put a knife in to the soil around the edge.
- Move away the excess soil so you can see the rhizomes (which are the thick underground stems that connect the plants).
- Find the natural separation points. You should see the plant has a few clusters that can be pulled apart.
- Using your hands (or scissors for the tougher parts), separate the plant into smaller sections. Each section should have at least one healthy leaf and some roots attached to it.
- Let the divisions dry in the air for a day or so. This will help any cuts to heal over and stop them from rotting.
- Plant each division in its own pot with fresh soil.
- Water a little and put them in bright, indirect light.
Leaf Cuttings in Water
This is my favorite method because you can actually see the roots as they grow. Which is strangely satisfying.
What You’ll Need:
- Healthy snake plant leaves
- Scissors or knife
- Glass container (a mason jar works great)
- Fresh water
- Patience (seriously, this method takes time!)
Steps:
- Choose healthy leaves from your snake plant. Cut them off as close to the soil as possible.
- Cut the leaves into sections about 3 to 4 inches long. Important tip: make note of which end was closest to the soil – this is the end that needs to go in the water! If you put the wrong end down it won’t root.
- Let the cut ends form a callous over about 1 or 2 days. This will stop rot.
- Put the bottom ends (the ones that were closest to the soil) in a container of water, making sure about an inch of the leaf is fully covered by it.
- Put the container somewhere bright but not in direct sunlight.
- Change the water every week or two so that it doesn’t get slimy.
- Wait… and then wait some more. It can take anywhere from 3 to 8 weeks to see the roots start developing.
- Once the roots are a couple of inches long plant them in soil.
I’ve found that water propagation works about 70% of the time for me. Why it will fail sometimes seem to be down to forgetting which end of the leaf should go in the water. Either that or when I’ve got too impatient and moved them to soul too fast.
Leaf Cuttings in Soil
If you don’t want to bother with transferring water rooted cuttings to soil later you can skip straight to soil propagation.
What You’ll Need:
- Healthy snake plant leaves
- Scissors or knife
- Small pots
- Soil mix that drains well (add extra perlite to regular potting soil)
- Rooting hormone (not necessary but can help)
Steps:
- Cut healthy leaves into 3 to 4 inch sections and be sure to make a note of which end was closest to the base.
- Let the cut ends form callouses over about 2 to 3 days.
- If you’re using rooting hormone dip the bottom end (that was closest to the soil) in it.
- Plant the cuttings about 1 inch deep in soil that drains well, making sure you plant them right side up!
- Water a little – just enough to moisten the soil a bit.
- Put in bright, indirect light.
- Pull on the cutting after about 4 to 6 weeks to see if there’s any resistance. If so then you can be confident the roots have formed.!
This method has the lowest success rate in my experience, around about 50%, but it’s also the most straightforward. You need to make sure you don’t overwater while the cuttings are trying to root through – that’s where most people (including me) mess up.
Important Things to Know Before You Start
There a few things about snake plant propagation that I wish someone had told me before I started:
The Variegation Issue
If you have a variegated snake plant (the ones with yellow or white edges) be aware that the leaf cuttings often turn back to the solid green variety when they’re propagated. Division is the only reliable way to keep the variegation.
The Waiting Game
Snake plants are s-l-o-w to propagate. Some houseplants can root in a few days or weeks but snake plants can take months.
As an example it took nearly 4 months for my water propagation cuttings to grow enough roots to transfer to soil. Then it was another 6 months before I saw any new leaves.
So don’t be discouraged if nothing seems to be happening for weeks. As long as your cuttings aren’t rotting or shrivelling up they’re probably working on their root below the soil.
The Orientation Matters
This is really important and worth repeating: snake plant leaves have a definite top and bottom. If you plant a cutting upside down, it won’t root.
So you’re going to want to remember which end was closer to the soil in the original plant and make sure that’s the end you’re putting in the soil.
The trick I use is to cut the top of each section at an angle so you can tell the difference between the ends and you’ll then always know which end needs to go down.
Common Problems and Troubleshooting
Even though snake plants are tough sometimes propagation won’t go perfectly.
Rotting Cuttings
This is the most common problem, especially with water propagation. If your cuttings start to turn mushy or lose their color, they’re rotting.
This usually happens because:
- You didn’t let the cuts form callouses before propagating
- The water isn’t being changed often enough
- The soil is too wet (for soil propagation)
No Roots Forming
If a few weeks have gone by and you see no signs of roots, check that:
- You’ve got the orientation correct (bottom end in water/soil)
- The temperature isn’t too cold (snake plants will do best when it comes to rotting in warm conditions)
- For soil propagation the soil might be too dry
New Plants Look Different
As mentioned earlier with variegated varieties, this is normal. Also new plants grown from leaf cuttings often have rounder, shorter leaves at first. They’ll eventually grow to look more like the parent plant but it can take years.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take for snake plant cuttings to root?
You’ve got to be patient. Water propagation usually shows tiny roots in 3 to 8 weeks. But they need to be a few inches long before you plant them (often 3 to 4 months in total). Soil propagation can take even longer, with 4 to 6 weeks before the roots form and over 6 months before new growth appears above the soil.
Can I propagate just a piece of a leaf?
Yes! You don’t need a whole leaf. Even a small section, like 2 or 3 inches, can successfully root and eventually grow in to a new plant. Just make sure you keep track of which end was closest to the base.
Will my new plants look exactly like the parent plant?
Not necessarily. As already mentioned, variegated varieties often change back to solid green when they’re propagated from leaf cuttings. Also, the first few leaves of a new plant may look different in shape and size compared to mature plants. Division is the only method that guarantees that plants look exactly the same.
What’s the best time of year to propagate snake plants?
Spring and summer are ideal. The warmer temperatures and natural growth help the propagation process. I’ve had very little success with winter propagation – it works but takes much longer.
Can I propagate a snake plant leaf that broke off?
Absolutely! An accidental break is actually the perfect opportunity for propagating. Just treat it like any other cutting – let the broken end callous over then put it in water or soil.
How do I know when to transfer water propagations to soil?
Wait until the roots are at least 1 to 2 inches long. If the roots are too small they’ll die off when you move to the soil too early. I’ve found that roots that have some small branches or offshoots (rather than just one long root) tend to move to soil better.
Final Thoughts
It may take some time but it can be a lot of fun and even rewarding to propagate a snake plant. Seeing a new plant grow a leaf is exciting.
I started with one neglected snake plant to having them in nearly every room. Plus I’ve given a few to friends.
Don’t be put off if your first attempt doesn’t work out perfectly. I’ve had plenty of failures along the way. The plants that do survive end up being surprisingly tough.
Start with more cuttings than you think you’ll need, try different methods to see what works best but most importantly enjoy the process.