Monstera’s may be tough but they can still struggle if treated poorly. But after saving many sad looking Monsteras from the brink I’ve learned what actually works.
So if your once gorgeous and healthy Swiss cheese plant is looking more like wilted lettuce, you’re in the right place. I’m going to give you everything you need to save a dying Monstera and get it back to full health.
Understanding a Struggling Monstera
When my first Monstera started turning yellow and droopy, I panicked. I’d spent too much on that plant to watch it die!
But Monstera plants are surprisingly resilient once you understand what’s gone wrong.
And what makes Monsteras throw a tantrum? In nearly every case their decline comes down to one (or more) of these factors:
Water issues top the list. Both overwatering and underwatering can send your Monstera into a death spiral. It’s giant leaves need just the right moisture balance. Too wet and the roots rot; too dry and the leaves crisp up faster than chips in an air fryer.
Light problems are next up – Monstera hate direct sun (hello, leaf burn) but also sulk in dark corners. That sweet spot of bright, indirect light can be frustratingly hard to nail.
Then there’s the soil. Your Monstera doesn’t want to sit in dense, compacted soil that suffocates its roots. It’s literally gasping for air down there.
Temperature shock is a silent killer too, especially if your plant gets blasted by heaters in winter or AC in summer. They have strong feelings about sudden temperature changes – and those feelings are usually expressed through dramatic leaf droop.
Pest problems can sneak up overnight. Spider mites, scale insects and mealybugs all love munching on those juicy Monstera leaves.
The good news though? Almost every dying Monstera can be saved if you catch the issues early enough. I’ve brought back plants that had just two sad leaves left – and so can you.
9 Ways to Save Your Dying Monstera
1. Repotting
I remember seeing a massive Monstera started collapsing despite regular watering. When it was taken from it’s pot the problem became clear – it was completely rootbound with a tangled mess of roots spiraling around the pot’s interior. No wonder it was struggling.
If your plant’s roots are bursting out of drainage holes or the plant seems too large for its container it’s time for a pot upgrade.
What You’ll Need:
- New pot (2-3 inches larger in diameter)
- Fresh, well draining potting mix
- Clean scissors or pruning shears
- Gloves (those roots can be prickly)
The Rescue Steps:
- Water your plant lightly the day before repotting (makes removal easier)
- Gently extract the plant, supporting the base of the stem
- Examine roots – trim any that are dark brown, mushy or smell bad
- Loosen the root ball gently with your fingers
- Add fresh soil to the new pot
- Position plant and fill around with soil, leaving 1-2 inches at top
- Water thoroughly and place in bright indirect light
An extra tip: Add a handful of perlite or orchid bark to your potting mix. This creates air pockets that Monstera roots absolutely love. My plants practically doubled their growth rate after I started doing this.
2. Water Therapy
Sometimes a plant is so stressed that soil just isn’t working anymore. That’s when I pull out my secret weapon: water therapy.
Water therapy gives your plant’s roots direct access to hydration while they recover from whatever trauma they’ve experienced.
What You’ll Need:
- Clean vase or jar filled with room temperature water
- Hydrogen peroxide (optional)
- Support structure (for larger plants)
The Rescue Steps:
- Gently remove plant from soil
- Rinse roots thoroughly to remove all soil particles
- Trim any dead or rotting roots with clean scissors
- Add a few drops of hydrogen peroxide to water (kills potential pathogens)
- Place roots in water, ensuring stem and leaves remain above
- Change water every 3-4 days
- Once new root growth appears (usually 2-4 weeks), transition back to soil
In the past I had a Monstera that had been overwatered to mush. After four weeks of water therapy it had grown multiple new leaves and was ready for soil again. The transformation was amazing. So it definitely works.
3. Careful Pruning
Sometimes you need to be cruel to be kind. Cutting away dying parts redirects your plant’s energy to healthy growth. I honestly hate cutting off any part of my plants. But with Monsteras it really works wonders.
What You’ll Need:
- Sharp, clean pruning shears
- Rubbing alcohol
- Optional: rooting hormone
The Rescue Steps:
- Sterilize your cutting tools with alcohol
- Remove any yellow, brown, or black leaves at the base of the stem
- Cut back excessive growth to reduce strain on the plant
- For severe cases, prune back to the healthiest stems and nodes
- Apply cinnamon powder to cuts (natural antifungal)
Don’t throw away those cuttings! Healthy pieces can be propagated in water to create backup plants.
4. Boost Humidity
People forget that Monsteras come from tropical rainforests where humidity regularly hits 80%. Your dry apartment is basically a desert to these plants. My own Monstera’s edges started browning as soon as winter heating kicked in.
What You’ll Need:
- Humidifier (ideally)
- Spray bottle
- Pebble tray
- Hygrometer to measure humidity
The Rescue Steps:
- Place a humidifier near your struggling plant
- Create a pebble tray: fill dish with stones, add water below stone level, place pot on top
- Group plants together to create a microclimate
- Mist around (not on) the plant in dry environments
- Move away from heating vents or AC units
I’ve had subbed with my plants by moving them to the bathroom. And that’s it just Monstera but others too. The steam from showers gave them the humidity they need. And within weeks new leaves were unfurling.
5. Light Balance
Finding the perfect light balance for a Monstera can feel impossible. But get it right and you’ll see the difference quickly. When my plant started stretching awkwardly toward the window I knew something had to change.
The Rescue Steps:
- Observe current conditions – is your plant reaching for light or hiding from it?
- For leggy, stretched plants: move closer to light source
- For burned or yellowing leaves: move further from direct sun
- Rotate plant weekly to encourage even growth
- Consider grow lights for winter months or naturally dark spaces
The perfect spot? Near an east facing window with morning sun filtered through a sheer curtain.
6. Root Rot Recovery
Root rot is the silent killer of houseplants. And Monsteras are particularly susceptible. I’ve lost large sections of plants to root rot. Thankfully the survival rate is good if you act fast.
What You’ll Need:
- Clean, sharp scissors
- Hydrogen peroxide solution (1 part 3% hydrogen peroxide to 2 parts water)
- Fresh potting mix
- New or thoroughly cleaned pot
- Cinnamon powder (natural fungicide)
The Rescue Steps:
- Remove plant from soil completely
- Wash all soil from roots under lukewarm running water
- Cut away all mushy, dark, or foul-smelling roots
- Soak remaining roots in hydrogen peroxide solution for 30 minutes
- Allow roots to air dry for 2-3 hours
- Dust with cinnamon powder
- Repot in fresh, well-draining soil mix
- Hold off watering for 3-5 days
You’ve have to be ruthless with those rotten roots though. If you try to save too many questionable roots then the rot return. Often within weeks. Clean cuts and good airflow saved mine.
7. Getting Rid of Pests
Nothing makes my skin crawl like finding pests on my plants. Spider mites, mealybugs, scale insects – they all love Monstera leaves. And they can kill your plant if you ignore them.
What You’ll Need:
- Insecticidal soap or neem oil
- Soft cloth or cotton swabs
- Alcohol solution (for mealybugs)
- Spray bottle
- Plant isolation area
The Rescue Steps:
- Isolate infected plant immediately (pests spread!)
- For spider mites: shower plant with strong spray of water, then apply insecticidal soap
- For mealybugs: dab visible bugs with alcohol-soaked cotton swab
- For scale: scrape off with fingernail, then wipe with insecticidal soap
- Treat every 5-7 days for at least 3 weeks (breaks life cycle)
- Clean surrounding area thoroughly
One treatment is rarely enough. Just when you think they’re gone a new generation hatches. Consistency wins.
8. Fertilizing Properly
Both over fertilizing and under fertilizing can send your Monstera into decline. I’ve burned my plant’s roots with too much fertilizer, embarrassingly.
What You’ll Need:
- Balanced liquid fertilizer (NPK 5-5-5 or similar)
- Measuring spoons
- Calendar reminder
The Rescue Steps:
- For over-fertilized plants: flush soil thoroughly with water 3-4 times
- For under-fertilized plants: apply half-strength balanced fertilizer
- Only fertilize during active growth (spring through fall)
- Start with half the recommended dose on package
- Create a fertilizing schedule (typically every 4-6 weeks)
What made a big difference to me was switching to an organic, slow release option. My plants now get steady nutrition without the risk of chemical burn. New leaves were much bigger within a few months.
9. New Soil
Sometimes the problem isn’t the plant – it’s what it’s growing in. Compacted, old or inappropriate soil can suffocate your Monstera’s roots. This was the issue with my oldest plant that suddenly stopped putting out new leaves.
What You’ll Need:
- High-quality potting mix
- Perlite or orchid bark
- Activated charcoal (optional)
- Coco coir or peat moss
The Rescue Steps:
- Create a custom Monstera mix: 60% quality potting soil, 20% orchid bark or perlite, 20% coco coir
- Add a handful of activated charcoal to prevent bacterial growth
- For minor issues: remove top 2 inches of old soil and replace with fresh mix
- For major issues: complete repotting with soil shake-off
- Water thoroughly after soil refresh
The perfect Monstera soil should hold moisture but drain excess water quickly. When I squeeze a handful I look for it to stick together slightly, then break apart easily.
Common Monstera Plant Issues and Solutions
Yellow Leaves
I panicked when I fish saw my Monstera leaves turning yellow. But yellowing is a sign somethings wrong but one that doesn’t tell you what specifically. It could be one of many things.
Causes:
- Overwatering (most common)
- Nutrient deficiency
- Aging (normal on oldest leaves)
- Light stress
Solutions:
- Check soil moisture – allow top 2-3 inches to dry between waterings
- Ensure proper drainage
- Apply diluted fertilizer if yellowing starts from leaf edges
- Accept some natural yellowing of oldest leaves
Brown Leaf Edges
Crispy and brown edges on your Monstera are pretty ugly.
Causes:
- Low humidity (most common)
- Underwatering
- Fertilizer burn
- Heat stress
Solutions:
- Increase humidity (50-60% minimum)
- Maintain consistent watering schedule
- Flush soil if fertilizer burn is suspected
- Move away from heat sources
Drooping Leaves
Nothing looks sadder than a Monstera with all its leaves pointing toward the floor.
Causes:
- Underwatering
- Root issues
- Temperature shock
- Transplant shock
Solutions:
- Check soil moisture – water if dry
- Examine roots for rot or crowding
- Maintain consistent temperature (65-85°F)
- Be patient after repotting – recovery takes time
No New Growth
This drove me crazy for a while. My plant wasn’t dying but it wasn’t growing either. Just sitting there like a green statue.
Causes:
- Seasonal dormancy (normal in winter)
- Insufficient light
- Root bound conditions
- Nutrient deficiency
Solutions:
- Accept slower growth in winter months
- Move to brighter location (no direct sun)
- Repot if roots are circling
- Fertilize during growing season
Black Spots on Leaves
Black spots are ugly but thankfully very treatable.
Causes:
- Fungal infection
- Bacterial infection
- Cold damage
- Water sitting on leaves
Solutions:
- Improve air circulation
- Avoid misting leaves
- Remove affected leaves entirely
- Apply fungicide for persistent issues
- Keep plant away from cold drafts
Frequently Asked Questions
Can a Monstera recover from extensive leaf damage?
Yes. Monsteras are very resilient. Damaged leaves won’t repair themselves but the plant will direct energy to new growth. I’ve seen plants with just a couple of sad leaves come back fully within a year.
How often should I water a recovering Monstera?
Less is more during recovery. Water only when the top 2-3 inches of soil are completely dry. For most environments that means every 7-10 days. Always check the soil rather than following a strict schedule though.
Should I cut off yellow leaves immediately?
Only remove leaves that are more than 50% damaged. Partly yellow leaves still photosynthesize and provide energy to your struggling plant. Once a leaf is mostly yellow or brown it’s using more energy than it produces.
My Monstera hasn’t grown new leaves in months. Is it dying?
Not necessarily. Monsteras naturally slow or stop growth during winter months or when adjusting to new conditions. If the existing leaves look healthy, be patient. Focus on consistent care and growth will resume when conditions improve.
Can I save a Monstera with completely rotted roots?
Yes, but you’ll need to act fast. If you have even one healthy node with no rot you can propagate it in water. I’ve saved plants by cutting away all rotted sections and starting fresh with just the healthy stem portions.
Final Thoughts
Saving a dying Monstera is part science and honestly, part luck. But I’ve seen the most desperate looking plants make full comebacks with the right care.
Plants operate on their own timeline. The miracle turnaround you’re hoping for might take weeks or even months. You have to stay consistent though and observe everything that happens.
If nothing is working though then there’s always water propagation. Even the most struggling Monstera can provide you with cuttings for a fresh start.