One of the main reasons we love Monsteras is the massive holes they get in their leaves. It’s what makes them stand out and look so good.
But when you’re growing and caring for your Monstera it might decide not to give you any holes. Maybe it’s just growing nice, large leaves but they’re free from any splits. Which can be frustrating if that was the reason you got the plant in the first place.
Well after many years or growing Monsteras I’ve got a pretty good idea of what helps to get those awesome looking holes. And I’m going to take you through what you should be doing to get your plant to grow them.
The Truth About Monstera Fenestration
The holes in Monsteras are more than good looking little extras. Monsteras don’t care how they fun or gorgeous they look. They have a proper reason for growing like that.
The splits in their leaves are there to help it survive tropical storms. The holes are what make Monsteras be able to get hit by hurricane force winds without being completely torn apart.
But most of us are growing baby Monsteras that haven’t reached the age whereby their leaves would start to split. I spent two years wondering why my “mature” Monstera looked like any other houseplant. Eventually I realized it was basically still a teenager in plant years.
When Holes Actually Start Appearing
Monstera usually needs to be producing leaves that are at least 8 to 10 inches across before you will see holes. And even then it’s not guaranteed. I’ve seen loads of Monsteras with 12 inch or more leaves that are still solid with no signs of splits.
According to research from the Missouri Botanical Garden, Monstera deliciosa can live over 40 years and reach 70 feet in their natural habitat. So the ones we are growing in our homes are pretty much infants when compared to the ones growing in the wild. Which is why we have to be a lot more patient when it comes to getting the holes.
The Age Factor
As frustrating as it is, age is what matters the most. When I bought what I thought was a mature Monstera from a store it turned out to be grown from propagated cuttings.
This is common (I now know), but unfortunately it sort of resets the Monsteras biological clock, so to speak. So after 3 years there were still no holes.
But I’ve seen enough Monsteras that are much older, 15+ years, and they have massive leaves with holes so big you could fit your heard through them. So you simply have to be patient.
Signs Your Monstera is Ready for Fenestration
- Leaves that consistently measure 8+ inches across
- Thick, sturdy stems that can support heavy leaves
- Aerial roots that are actively growing
- New leaves that are emerging with small splits at the edges
- Overall the plant is bigger than 3 or 4 feet
Light
Light is something you can’t mess about with if you want your Monstera leaves to split. It’s got to be having bright, indirect light for most of the day.
When I moved one of mine that wasn’t growing any holes from a north facing window to a south facing one, and added a super curtain, the first split appeared within 6 months. Maybe it was a coincidence but I doubt it.
The Science Behind Light and Holes
When your Monstera is in low light it focused all its energy on surviving. That means growing it’s leaves as big as it possibly can so it can catch lots of light.
But when it’s getting enough light, or more than enough, it can put it’s energy into developing holes because it’s getting lots of photosynthesis from smaller leaf surface area. Basically without enough light it has to concentrate entirely on surviving. When it gets the light it needs it can think about, and act on, how it’s going to thrive.
Setting Up for the Right Light
- East or south facing windows with sheer curtains work best
- If you can’t get enough light then use a grow light. Your Monstera should be getting 12+ hours of bright light daily
- Rotate it on a weekly basis so every side gets exposed to the same amount of light
- Keep an eye out for the leaves getting burnt and move back from the windows if so.
- Don’t overlook the seasons. If something is working in the winter it might be too much for your Monstera in the summer
How Support Helps
Monsteras are climbers. They are definitely not floor plants. In the wils they climb up huge trees, some that can reach as high as 70 feet. So if you’re only giving your Monstera a tiny little miss pole that probably won’t be enough.
When I got my Monstera a much larger pole it made a big difference. It was only a few months later that the leaves were noticeably bigger and splits weren’t far behind. When they’re supported properly they will put more energy into growing impressive leaves.
For more support ideas try this guide.
Building Good Support
Avoid a flimsy moss poles from your garden center. Try this instead:
- Thick wooden stakes or cedar planks (at least 2 inches wide)
- High quality sphagnum moss secured with plant ties
- Multiple attachment points as the plant grows
- Room for the support to expand upward as needed
- Stable base that won’t tip over with a large plant
Tip: Keep the moss damp but not soaking. The aerial roots love to grow into moist moss which will help the plant to feel more secure. And in turn that will encourage bigger leaves to grow.
Humidity
One of my first Monsteras struggled for months until I got myself a proper humidifier. As Monstera are used to growing in tropical rainforests they like the humidity to be similar.
Rainforest humidity is around 60 to 80% year round. But our homes are more like 30 to 40% humidity, which isn’t enough.
When I used the humidifier and got the humidity up to about 55 to 60% the leaves improved more than I expected.
Getting the Right Humidity
- Use a humidifier near your plant
- Grouping plants together helps them to raise humidity between one another
- Put pebble trays filled with water around the plant
- Don’t mist directly on the leaves as it can cause more problems than it solves
- Use a hygrometer to keep track of the humidity levels
Feeding
Getting the balance right is how you feed your Monstera the best way. You don’t want to feed it to much or not enough.
They are heavy feeders when they’re actively growing but they need balanced nutrition, not just any fertilizer.
During the growing season (which is spring through early fall) I feed my Monsteras every 2 to 3 weeks with a balanced liquid fertilizer. I make sure it is diluted to half strength fist though.
A Good Feeding Schedule
- Spring/Summer: Feed every 2 to 3 weeks with balanced fertilizer (like 20-20-20)
- Fall: Reduce to monthly feeding
- Winter: Stop fertilizing unless the Monstera is actively growing under a grow light
- Always dilute fertilizer to half the recommended strength
- Use plain water to flush the soil every month as it will stop salt from building up
If you overfertilize you can delay the splits and holes from forming. It will stress your Monstera and a stressed plant goes into survival mode rather than developing it’s leaves.
Root Health
This might sound obvious but healthy roots are absolutely critical for fenestration. A root bound Monstera I had was looking great and getting the best care from me (good light, humidity etc) but wouldn’t give me any holes. It took a full repot before it would even think about growing splits in the leaves.
So if the roots are cramped it won’t have enough resources to put into developing leaves.
Signs Your Monstera Needs Better Root Conditions
- Water runs straight through without being absorbed
- Roots growing out of the drainage holes
- Plant is toppling over and too heavy
- New growth is smaller than previous leaves
- Soil stays wet for more than a week after being watered
Being Patient
I know this isn’t what you want to hear but getting big holes in Monstera leaves is often a waiting game. Even if you give your Monstera the perfect care and conditions it can still take 2 to 4 years.
But, for me at least, the wait is worth it. When you get that first leaf with splits and holes you’ll be hooked. It really goes from something a bit ordinary to something spectacular.
Staying Motivated During the Wait
- Document your plant’s progress with monthly photos
- Celebrate small victories like new aerial roots or slightly larger leaves
- Look to find other people growing Monsteras online to get some advice and support
- Don’t obsess with holes and try to think about the overall health of your plant
- Think about growing a few other plants so you have backups starting multiple plants so you have backups
Mistakes That Delay Holes
Overpotting
I bought a huge pot for one of my Monstera because I thought it would help it to grow bigger. But instead it just tried to fill the pot with its roots and the leaves stayed fairly small. That’s because Monsteras like to be a bit root bound before they move up a pot size.
Watering
Inconsistent watering stressed my Monsteras more than I realized. They like the soil to dry out somewhat between waterings, but not totally. So I do the usual check of putting my finger a couple of inches into the soil. It’s it feels dry I know that it’s the right time to water.
For more info see this guide to watering your Monstera.
Temperature Swings
Monsteras hate big temperature changes. If you put yours near a heating vent you’ll be watching its leaves get smaller and smaller. And good luck getting any holes for them.
They want a steady temperature of between 65 to 85°F.
Tips for Maximum Holes
Once your Monstera starts getting some holes there are ways you can encourage even more.
Stressing It
This is going to go against most of what I’ve already said but if you stress your Monstera slightly (slightly being the key word) it can encourage more holes.
In nature plants develop holes partly as a survival mechanism. And some people have had success with controlled stress:
- Let the soil dry out slightly more than usual (but not to the point of the plant wilting)
- Give it very bright light
- Support the plant so well that it feels confident to grow big holes
Be careful doing this though. If you go too far it will backfire and slow growth completely.
Pruning
Careful pruning can redirect energy into fewer but more impressive leaves. If you’re getting a lot of small leaves then do a bit of pruning on the smaller shoots and it might encourage your Monstera to put more energy into the main areas or growth.
When to Worry (And When Not To)
Normal Signs That Don’t Signal Problems
- New leaves emerging without holes even on mature plants
- Occasional solid leaves mixed with holey ones
- Slow growth during the winter
- Slight yellowing of oldest leaves
- Aerial roots growing everywhere
Signs That Need Attention
- Consistently smaller new growth
- Multiple yellowing leaves at once
- Soft, mushy stems or roots
- Stopping growing completely during the growing season
- Peats on leaves or in the soil
Being Realistic
Ready for a harsh truth? Not every Monstera will develop massive, awesome looking holes.
Some plants are just genetically predisposed to smaller fenestrations. I’ve had Monstera that produce beautiful splits but relatively small holes and others that look like Swiss cheese.
Part of successful Monstera growing is accepting it might not happen and appreciating your plant and what is does rather than comparing it to others.
Final Thoughts
Getting big holes in your Monstera leaves is going to come down to one main thing – being patient. Yes, you’ll need to do the right things and care for it in the right way. But after that it’s just a waiting game.
A plant that gets decent light, regular water and proper support will do well, especially against that gets perfect conditions but sporadically.
Your Monstera wants to develop those dramatic holes – that’s literally what it’s programmed to do. So you just have to give it the conditions and leave it to it.
Sometimes the best thing you can do for a Monstera is simply let it grow.
Trust the process and remember that when you do get those first holes it will have been worth the wait.