So you’ve got yourself a snake plant. They’re supposed to be “unkillable,” right? The plant that thrives on neglect?
Well, I hate to break it to you, but even these hardy plants can hit a growth plateau. And it’s super frustrating when your supposedly bulletproof plant just sits there… doing absolutely nothing.
I’ve been there. My first snake plant (affectionately named Medusa) barely grew an inch in two years. I was convinced I had somehow purchased the world’s only defective snake plant. Spoiler alert: I was the problem not the plant!
If your snake plant seems stuck in time there’s usually a good reason for it. I’ll take you through the most common causes and how to get your plant back on the growth train.
1. You’re Drowning Your Snake Plant
The number one snake plant killer? Overwatering. Hands down.
Snake plants are succulents. That means they store water in their thick leaves and actually prefer their soil to dry out completely between waterings.
But so many of us treat them like regular houseplants. We see dry soil and immediately reach for the watering can. Big mistake.
When you overwater a snake plant, the roots sit in soggy soil and start to rot. Root rot prevents the plant from taking up water and nutrients, which means… no growth. In severe cases, your snake plant will develop yellow, mushy leaves that eventually turn brown and die.
How to fix it:
- Water your snake plant only when the soil is completely dry (I’m talking bone dry, all the way down)
- In winter, you might only need to water once a month
- During active growing season (spring/summer), once every 2-3 weeks is usually plenty
- Always check the soil with your finger first – if in doubt, don’t water!
- Use a pot with drainage holes (non-negotiable!)
I’ve learned to lift my snake plant pots to feel their weight. A light pot means it’s time to water. A heavy pot means the soil is still wet. Simple but effective.
2. Your Snake Plant Is Starving
While snake plants aren’t hungry beasts, they do need some nutrients to grow. Many people assume that because they’re “low maintenance,” they don’t need fertilizer at all.
The reality is that potting soil eventually depletes of nutrients. And if your snake plant has been in the same pot with the same soil for years, it’s probably running on empty.
A nutrient-starved snake plant won’t die dramatically, but it will stop growing. It’s like when you’re really hungry but don’t have enough energy to get up and make food. The plant is alive but not thriving.
How to fix it:
- Fertilize during the growing season (spring and summer) with a balanced houseplant fertilizer
- Dilute fertilizer to half the recommended strength
- Apply every 4-6 weeks during growing season
- Don’t fertilize in fall or winter when growth naturally slows
- Repot with fresh soil every 2-3 years
I accidentally overfertilized my snake plant once (classic overeager plant parent move), and it got these weird brown spots all over. So remember: less is more with fertilizing snake plants.
3. Your Snake Plant Is Potbound (Or Has Too Much Space)
Here’s a tricky one – snake plants actually like being a little rootbound. It encourages them to produce pups (baby plants). But if they’re extremely rootbound, with roots circling around and around the pot, they’ll struggle to grow.
On the flip side, putting a small snake plant in a massive pot isn’t good either. When a pot is too large, the soil stays wet for too long (hello root rot!), and the plant wastes energy trying to fill the pot with roots instead of growing upward.
How to fix it:
- Repot when you see roots growing out of drainage holes or the plant is extremely top-heavy
- Choose a pot only 1-2 inches larger than the current one
- Fresh soil is important, but don’t go overboard on pot size
- Snake plants grow fastest when slightly rootbound, but not extremely cramped
- Repotting is best done in spring when the plant is actively growing
When I finally repotted my stunted snake plant, it sent up THREE new leaves within a month. It was clearly ready for a little more room.
4. Your Light Levels Are All Wrong
Another myth about snake plants is that they’ll grow anywhere. While they’ll survive in low light, they won’t thrive there.
Snake plants are actually native to semi-arid regions of Africa where they receive dappled sunlight. In our homes, they grow best with bright, indirect light. Too little light, and growth slows to a crawl. Too much direct light, and their leaves can actually burn.
How to fix it:
- Place your snake plant near a window with bright, indirect light
- They can tolerate some morning direct sun, but avoid harsh afternoon sun
- If your snake plant is in a dark corner, rotate it to a brighter spot for a few weeks to encourage growth
- You can tell it’s getting too much light if the leaves develop pale patches or brown edges
- In very low light, your snake plant may survive for years but will grow extremely slowly
I had a snake plant in my bathroom with just a tiny window for years. It didn’t die, but it grew maybe half an inch a year. When I moved it to my east-facing bedroom, it grew 4 inches in a single season!
5. Your Snake Plant Is Too Cold
As tropical plants, snake plants hate the cold. They prefer temperatures between 65-85°F (18-29°C).
If your snake plant lives somewhere that regularly dips below 50°F (10°C), its growth will slow dramatically or stop completely. In extreme cold, the plant can suffer cellular damage that appears as dark spots or mushy patches.
This is particularly important in winter when we might turn the heat down at night or have drafty windows.
How to fix it:
- Keep your snake plant away from drafty doors and windows, especially in winter
- Avoid placing it near AC vents in summer
- If you keep your house cool in winter, move the plant to a warmer spot
- Never leave your snake plant outside if temperatures might drop below 50°F (10°C)
- Remember that windowsills can be much colder than the rest of the room
6. Your Snake Plant Has Pest Problems
While snake plants are more resistant to pests than many houseplants, they’re not immune. And a pest infestation can definitely halt growth.
The most common culprits are mealybugs (they look like little cottony spots) and spider mites (which leave fine webbing). Both suck the sap from the plant, weakening it and preventing new growth.
How to fix it:
- Regularly inspect your plant, especially the crevices where leaves meet
- For minor infestations, wipe leaves with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol
- For larger problems, spray with insecticidal soap or neem oil
- Isolate infected plants to prevent spreading
- Preventively wipe leaves with a damp cloth every few months to remove dust that attracts pests
I ignored some tiny mealybugs on my snake plant once, thinking “it’s just a few.” Within weeks, they had multiplied and spread to my other plants. Don’t be like me – deal with pests immediately.
7. You’re Using The Wrong Soil
Snake plants need well-draining soil. When planted in regular houseplant potting mix, they often stay too wet, which leads to (you guessed it) root rot and stunted growth.
The ideal soil for snake plants mimics their native growing conditions – sandy, slightly acidic, and quick-draining.
How to fix it:
- Use a succulent or cactus potting mix, or…
- Make your own mix with 2 parts regular potting soil, 1 part perlite, and 1 part coarse sand
- Avoid soils with water-retaining crystals or high peat content
- When repotting, gently shake off as much of the old soil as possible without damaging the roots
- Add a layer of small pebbles at the bottom of the pot for even better drainage
In the past I switched from regular potting soil to a cactus mix and my snake plant not only grew faster but also produced more pups. The roots were visibly healthier when I eventually repotted it too.
8. Your Snake Plant Variety Is Naturally Slow-Growing
Not all snake plants grow at the same rate. Some varieties are naturally slower growers than others, so your expectations might need adjusting.
For example, the common Sansevieria trifasciata ‘Laurentii’ (the one with yellow edges) grows fairly quickly under good conditions. But the cylindrical Sansevieria cylindrica (often called African spear plant) grows much more slowly.
The dwarf varieties like ‘Hahnii’ or ‘Golden Hahnii’ also grow slower and stay smaller, as their name suggests.
How to fix it:
- Research your specific variety to understand its normal growth rate
- Smaller varieties naturally grow more slowly
- Variegated types (with colored edges or stripes) typically grow slower than solid green types
- Even fast-growing varieties only add a few new leaves per year
- Focus on the health of the plant rather than just its size
9. Your Snake Plant Is Just Taking A Break
Sometimes, there’s nothing wrong with your plant at all. Snake plants, like most houseplants, have natural growth cycles. They typically grow actively in spring and summer, then take a break in fall and winter.
During these dormant periods, you might not see any new growth for months – and that’s perfectly normal.
If your plant looks healthy otherwise (no yellowing, no mushy parts, firm leaves), it might just be resting between growth spurts.
How to fix it:
- Understand that no growth in winter is normal
- Reduce watering during dormant periods
- Be patient – sometimes snake plants focus on root growth before producing new leaves
- Keep caring for it consistently, and growth will likely resume when conditions are right
- Take photos every few months to track slow growth you might not notice day-to-day
I once thought my snake plant had stopped growing entirely. Later on I found an old photo from 6 months earlier and realized it had actually grown several inches! Growth can be so gradual that we don’t notice it happening.
FAQ About Snake Plant Growth Issues
How fast should a snake plant grow?
Even under ideal conditions, don’t expect your snake plant to grow like a weed. Most varieties produce 2-4 new leaves per year during the growing season. A healthy mature plant might grow 1-3 inches taller per year. That’s it! Anyone promising faster growth is probably exaggerating.
Should I cut off damaged snake plant leaves?
Yes, but only if they’re severely damaged. If a leaf has minor damage, the plant will waste energy trying to heal it. But if a leaf is mushy, severely yellow, or flopping over, cut it off at the base with clean scissors. The plant will redirect energy to new growth.
My snake plant hasn’t grown in a year. Should I throw it out?
Definitely not! A year without growth doesn’t mean your plant is doomed. Check all the factors mentioned above, make adjustments, and be patient. Some of my slowest snake plants eventually became my most prolific once I figured out what they needed.
Can snake plants recover from overwatering?
Yes, if caught early. If you suspect overwatering, stop watering immediately and move the plant to brighter light. If leaves are very mushy, you may need to remove the plant, cut away rotted roots, and repot in fresh, dry soil. Let it recover for a week before watering again.
Do snake plants need bigger pots to grow taller?
Not necessarily. Snake plants can reach impressive heights even in relatively small pots. In fact, being slightly rootbound often encourages more leaf growth. Only repot when the plant is extremely rootbound or becoming too top-heavy for its pot.
Will my snake plant ever flower?
Snake plants can flower, but it’s rare indoors. They typically only flower when mature (8+ years old) and slightly stressed. The flowers grow on tall stalks and are fragrant at night, but honestly aren’t very impressive. Don’t worry if yours never flowers – it’s focusing on leaf growth instead!
Final Thoughts
Remember that snake plants grow slowly by nature. Even with perfect care you’re not going to see dramatic changes overnight. That’s actually part of their charm – they’re the marathon runners of the plant world, not the sprinters.
I’ve found the key to snake plant success is finding the right balance. Not too much water, not too much fertilizer, not too much fussing in general. Make adjustments one at a time and give your plant a few weeks to respond before changing something else.
And sometimes the best thing you can do for a struggling snake plant is… nothing at all. Back off a bit, stick to a minimal care routine and let the plant figure itself out. These plants survived harsh conditions in Africa long before we brought them into our homes.
But finally – don’t get discouraged. Every plant parent has killed a supposedly “unkillable” plant at some point. The fact that you’re researching why your snake plant isn’t growing shows you’re already ahead of the game. Your plant is lucky to have you and I bet with a few tweaks to its care routine it’ll be sending up new leaves before you know it.