Orchids can make you want to tear your hair out. You give them the perfect light, water them on schedule, maybe even talk to them (no judgement here) and yet they still take ages to give you any new growth.
I’ve stood around in my kitchen staring at my Phalaenopsis orchid just thinking to myself “it’ll be any day now..”. And of course that day didn’t come for many more months.
Orchids don’t really rush for anyone but there are some things you can do nudge them along. These aren’t magic tricks that will make your plant bloom overnight. But they will give you a better shot at seeing faster and healthier growth.
So I’m going to take you through 10 practical tips. Some of them are about changing how you care for your orchid, others will mean spending a little on equipment and a few are just about rethinking how you treat your orchid.
Quick Answer
- Increase Bright, Indirect Light: Orchids grow faster with steady light. Put yours near a window that is well lit and gets filtered sun.
- Feed on Schedule: Use a balanced orchid fertilizer every 2 to 3 weeks while the leaves and roots are growing.
- Keep Conditions Stable: Warm days, slightly cooler nights and moderate humidity will help with growing.
For more help see 7 Mistakes You’re Making with Your Orchids (And How to Fix Them).
1. Give Them the Right Kind of Light
If I had to choose the main reason orchids grow slowly I’d go for light. If you don’t give them enough they’ll just sit there doing very little. Give them too much and you’ll burn the leaves. The right balance is what you need.
To get them to grow faster you want to copy the bright, indirect light they’d get where they originally grew (which would have usually been under the canopy of taller trees).
An early mistake I made was putting my on a shady bookshelf. It survived but the speed at which it grew was ridiculous.
But then I moved it to an east facing window with a sheer curtain and I got new leaf growth within a few weeks.
If you don’t have the right window a small LED grow light can really help. Just keep it on for about 12 to 14 hours a day.
- Why it works: Photosynthesis speeds up giving the plant more energy to grow.
- Tools: Sheer curtains, LED grow light, a timer plug.
- Extra tip: The leaves on your orchid should be a medium green color. If they’re too dark it they’re means not getting enough light and if they’re turning yellow it means they’re getting too much.
2. Keep Temperatures in the Sweet Spot
Orchids don’t like extremes. If your kitchen swings from chilly in the morning to very hot in the afternoons, that’s going to upset them. Most orchids grow best in daytime temperatures around 70 to 80°F (21 to 27°C) and night temps about 10 to 15 degrees cooler.
I once had a Cattleya near a drafty window in the winter. It was clearly not happy. That was until I moved it a foot further in, where the temperature was a lot more stable all the time. And suddenly it had new root tips. So being consistent with temperature is a big deal.
- Why it works: Stable temps stop orchids getting stressed, letting the plant focus on growth.
- Tools: Digital thermometer, possibly a space heater or fan for control.
- Extra tip: A slight drop in temperature at night can actually trigger flowering in some species.
3. Feed Them – But Not Too Much
There’s a whole “weekly weakly” mantra in the orchid world: feed your plants a diluted orchid fertilizer every week. The keyword there though is diluted. If you give them full strength it can burn roots. Half or even a quarter strength is more than enough.
Once I got my act together and stuck to this schedule (instead of my previous method which was just whenever I remembered), my orchids stopped looking like they were struggling so much. You’ll want a balanced fertilizer (20-20-20) or one slightly higher in nitrogen when trying to get the leaves and roots to grow.
- Why it works: Provides essential nutrients for faster tissue development.
- Tools: Orchid specific fertilizer, measuring spoon, watering can.
- Extra tip: Once flower spikes appear switch to a formula with more phosphorus that will help the flowers grow.
4. Repot Every 1 to 2 Years
Old potting mix breaks down and can then suffocate the roots and slow growth. If your orchid’s been in the same bark mix for three years or more it’s going to have an affect.
When I repotted one of my orchids a while back I discovered the bark had pretty much turned to mulch. But after giving it fresh medium and waiting about a month it started shooting new pseudobulbs.
- Why it works: Fresh media helps make the drainage better and oxygen flow to the roots.
- Tools: Orchid bark/moss, sterilized scissors, new pot with drainage holes.
- Extra tip: Transparent pots help you see how healthy the roots are.
Learn how to repot an orchid with this guide.
5. Water Correctly
I used to think orchids were fragile so I barely watered mine. But underwatering can slow them down just as much as overwatering. What you should be doing is watering thoroughly then letting the potting mix dry slightly before the next time.
Stick your finger an inch into the medium – if it feels dry you know it’s time to water. Or lift the pot up as dry pots usually feel lighter. Always use room temperature water too, and don’t let the water sit in the crown of the plant.
- Why it works: Keeps the roots hydrated without suffocating them.
- Tools: Watering can with a narrow spout, moisture meter if you want to get fancy.
- Extra tip: Watering in the early morning gives the leaves time to dry out.
6. Give Them Humidity
Most orchids come from humid jungles. But your living room or home is probably much lower in humidity and that means they will grow slower and get crispy tips to their roots.
I had a Vanda that started shriveling and a cheap humidity tray (just a shallow dish with pebbles and water) really made a difference. But if you want to go all out then getting a small humidifier will make your orchid very happy.
- Why it works: Higher humidity keeps the roots and leaves hydrated for longer.
- Tools: Pebble tray, humidifier, hygrometer.
- Extra tip: Aim for 50 to 70% humidity for most species.
7. Prune Dead Stuff
Old, dead spikes, shriveled roots, yellow leaves – they’re not helping the orchid. In fact they’re probably taking energy from the plant. Pruning it regularly will help send energy to new growth.
- Why it works: Stops wasted resources on parts that won’t grow.
- Tools: Sterilized pruning shears, gloves.
- Extra tip: Always sterilize tools to stop any diseases spreading.
8. Use the Right Pot
Orchids like air around their roots. That’s why you see them sold in pots with lots of holes. If yours is in a standard plastic nursery pot you might be stopping it from growing as well as it could.
Try switching your orchid to a slotted orchid pot. Clear pots also let light reach the roots which some orchids like.
- Why it works: Improves air circulation and drainage, reducing root rot risk.
- Tools: Slotted orchid pot, cachepot if you want it to look prettier.
- Extra tip: Avoid oversized pots – orchids like snug fits.
9. Rest Periods Matter
Some orchids need a short rest after they bloom. That doesn’t mean you should be neglecting yours but give it slightly less water and fertilizer as it can help them gear up for the next growth spurt.
- Why it works: Copies the natural seasonal cycles, triggering stronger future growth.
- Tools: Calendar or plant journal to track blooming cycles.
- Extra tip: Research your orchid type – not all of them need rest periods.
10. Keep Them Clean
Dusty leaves can block the light from being absorbed. Fungal spots? Those can spread. Wiping the leaves with a damp cloth every couple of weeks keeps your orchid healthier.
Once I started cleaning mine I couldn’t believe how glossy and green they could look. It’s such a small thing but a healthy plant just grows better.
- Why it works: Maximizes photosynthesis and reduces disease risk.
- Tools: Soft cloth, clean water, mild insecticidal soap if needed.
- Extra tip: Don’t use leaf shine products as they can clog the pores.
FAQ
How long does it usually take for an orchid to grow a new leaf?
It can be anywhere from a few weeks to a few months. But it depends on the species and the growing conditions.
Can I use regular houseplant fertilizer?
Yes, but dilute it more than you would for other plants. And don’t use ones with nitrogen that is urea based for orchids.
Will ice cube watering make orchids grow faster?
Not really. Cold water can shock roots. So room temperature water is better.
Do all orchids need bright light?
Most do, but what is considered bright varies — Phalaenopsis orchids, as an example, like bright and indirect but orchids like Cattleyas don’t mind more direct light.
Why are my orchid’s leaves wrinkled?
Usually this down to one of underwatering, low humidity or root issues that age slowing down how fast it can take
Up nutrients.
Final Thoughts
Orchids are slow by nature. That’s really part of their charm. But you can help them to move a bit faster.
Some small changes to light, temperature, watering, feeding and a few other details, will give them the conditions they need to grow quicker.
I’ve had orchids go from months of nothing to lots of leaves and spikes in the same season once I made some of the changes listed here. Sometimes it’s jist one simple alteration (some fresh bark, a better light spot) and sometimes it’s a combination of things. Either way it’s worth the effort as seeing that new growth is always satisfying.
So if you’ve been staring at your orchid every morning waiting for something to happen maybe try one (or all) of these tips. You might just get some action from your orchid a lots sooner than you think.