8 Reasons Your Peace Lily Isn't Growing

A peace lily that isn’t producing new leaves can be missed at first. The plant can stay looking fine because the existing leaves look nice and green.

But then some weeks go by, then months, and and at some point you realize that the plant looks exactly the same as it did when you bought it – or worse, exactly the same as it did a year ago. No new growth at all. Just the same leaves that aren’t going anywhere.

When a peace lily slows down its growth, or stops altogether, it’s telling you something is wrong. It’s not happy for some reason.

Unlike wilting, which is dramatic and you’ll notice straightaway, stopped growth is a quiet signal – easy to miss until you start paying attention. Thankfully most of the reasons behind it are easily fixable, and once you figure out where it’s coming from and address it, peace lilies will often respond with new growth within a few weeks to a few months.

The tricky part is that quite a few different problems give a peace lily no new leaves – which means guessing the cause and trying a random fix usually won’t work.

So this guide will take you through the eight most common reasons a peace lily stops growing, how to diagnose each one and exactly what to do about it. Work through them in order – starting with the most common causes – and you’ll find your answer.

Table of Contents

Quick Answer

Low Light: Peace lilies slow down in rooms with little light. Move the plant to bright, indirect light for better growth.
Watering Problems: Constantly wet soil or long periods of dryness can stress the roots. Water once the top inch of soil dries.
Old Soil or Root Crowding: Depleted soil or a tight pot will stop growth. Refresh the potting mix or repot it if the roots grow too big and fill the container.

For more help see Peace Lily Care Guide: Tips to Get Thriving Plants.

Reason 1: Not Enough Light

01 The plant is growing in low light

This is by far and away the most common reason a peace lily stops producing new growth. It’s also the one most missed because peace lilies are thought to be plants that do well in low light.

And yes, they are tolerant of low light and will survive if you put yours somewhere without much of it. But tolerating low light and actively growing in it are two very different things.

In genuinely low light conditions a peace lily will spend a lot of its limited energy just maintaining the leaves it already has rather than investing in new growth. The plant just trying to survive, not grow, and it will stay that way until light levels improve.

How to diagnose it: The hand shadow test is the quickest check. Hold your hand about 30cm above a piece of white paper in where the plant is at about midday on a bright day. If you get a A sharp and defined shadow that means it’s good light. If the shadow is soft and blurry that’s medium light. No shadow at all means low light – and a peace lily in that low light will struggle. You can also look at the plant itself: if it has pale or yellow leaves or stems that are leaning towards the light source then that’s another sign there isn’t enough light for it.

What to do: Move the plant to a somewhere that’s get more light. Peace lilies do best in bright indirect light – close enough to a window to benefit from good natural light but not in direct sun which can burn the leaves. In the Northern Hemisphere an east facing window is often ideal. A few feet back from a south or west facing window or directly in front of a north facing window will also work well. If you’re home just doesn’t get enough natural light then using a full spectrum LED grow light on a 12 to 14 hour daily timer will make a decent substitute. Once in better light most peace lilies will start giving you new leaves within four to eight weeks.

Reason 2: Overwatering and Root Damage

02 The roots are damaged and can’t support new growth

Overwatering is the most common reason peace lilies die, and long before a plant dies from too much water, it stops growing. Roots that have been sitting in waterlogged soil lose their ability to function properly – they can’t take up water and nutrients efficiently even when the soil has lots of them.

A plant with damaged roots is starving regardless of how well it’s fed. And a starving plant doesn’t put its energy into new growth.

Thats why an overwatered peace lily often looks fine for a long time while but in reality is silently dying. The leaves it already has carry on and survive on stored resources but nothing new appears.

How to diagnose it: Check how moist the soil is first – put your finger an inch into the compost. If it feels damp or cool, even several days after you’ve watered it, the soil is staying too wet. Then take the plant out of its pot and look at the roots. Healthy roots are white or maybe a sort of tan color, as well feeling firm. Overwatered, root rotted roots are brown or black, soft and quite likely smell pretty bad. Even one or two rotten roots in an otherwise healthy looking root ball can be enough to really affect how the plant functions.
Related symptoms: Yellow lower leaves, a nasty smell from the soil, fungus gnats all around the pot and wilting are all signs that overwatering rather than another cause is behind the lack of growth.

What to do: Unpot the plant and look at the roots. Cut away all rotten roots – cutting back to healthy white tissue. Dust the cut ends with powdered cinnamon or sulphur to help stop any fungus spreading. Repot it in fresh potting mix (a standard houseplant compost with 20 to 30% perlite added is ideal) in a pot with a good amount of drainage holes. Water sparingly for the next few weeks while the roots regrow – the plant needs less water than you might think during it’s recovery. From then on you should only be watering when the top inch or two of compost is dry and never let the pot sit in standing water in a saucer.

Reason 3: Root Bound

03 The roots have filled the pot and have nowhere left to grow

A peace lily where the roots completely fill the pot will have multiple issues in regards to it’s growth: the soil has been mostly replaced by roots and so holds onto very little water or nutrients, the roots themselves have no room to grow any bigger and the density of the root ball will result in terrible air flow around the roots.

In this situation the plant essentially plateaus – it maintains what it has but doesn’t have the resources and space to grow any new leaves. This problem will develop slowly and is easy to miss because it looks like nothing is wrong.

How to diagnose it: Take the plant out of its pot. If what you see is tightly wound roots with very little compost, and the root ball is the exact shape of the pot, then you can be confident it’s root bound. Additional signs: roots growing out of the drainage holes at the base, roots circling the surface of the soil and soil that dries out unusually fast after watering (because there is so little soil left relative to the amount of roots).

What to do: Repot it into a container that’s one size up – usually something like 2 to 5cm larger in diameter than the current pot. Don’t go bigger than this as too much potting mix around small roots stays wet too long and could lead to root rot. Use fresh potting compost and take out any circling roots before repotting. Spring is the best time for this as you give the plant the full growing season to get established in its new pot. After repotting most peace lilies will give you noticeable new growth within four to eight weeks as the roots expand into the fresh compost.

Reason 4: Dormancy or Winter Slowdown

04 The plant has slowed down naturally in response to the seasons changing

This is the reason that causes the most unnecessary worry because the plant looks exactly the same as it would if something were properly wrong. Peace lilies are not deciduous and don’t go fully dormant in the winter but they do slow down as a reaction to lower light and cooler temperatures.

Less light means less photosynthesis, which means less energy available for growth. A peace lily that was producing a new leaf every few weeks through the summer can produce nothing at all from November through to February, and this is completely normal and doesn’t need you to do anything.

How to diagnose it: Timing is the key diagnosing. If the slowing down of growth coincides with the shorter days of autumn and the plant resumes growing when the light levels improve in late winter or spring then you’ll known its down to the seasons. The plant should otherwise look healthy – with glossy leaves and no yellowing or wilting and soil that dries out at a normal rate. If you see any of those signs alongside the stopped growth the keep looking down this list for another cause.

What to do: In most cases – nothing. Water less often in the winter to go with the plant’s need being less (the soil will dry more slowly as the plant is using less water), stop feeding it until the growth resumes in the spring and keep the plant in the brightest available spot. If you want to get growth all year round the using a grow light on a timer can make up for less daylight in the winter and keep the plant in a more active state through the colder months – though some slowing is natural in the winter and doesn’t harm the plant’s health over the long term.

The most useful question to ask first: Has the plant ever grown in this spot or has it always looked the same since you got it? If it grew well in summer and stopped in autumn then it’s very likely down to the seasons. If it has never grown since you brought it home one of the other reasons in this guide is more likely the cause.

Reason 5: Nutrient Deficiency or Depleted Compost

05 The soil is exhausted and can no longer support new growth

A peace lily that has been in the same pot and the same compost for two or more years without regular feeding is almost certainly growing in medium that’s depleted of nutrients. Those nutrients are finite – they’re used by the plant, broken down by soil microorganisms and washed out with regular watering.

After a year or two in the same pot without fertiliser or fresh compost there may be very little left for the plant to take from the soil. A slow down or stopping of growth is one of the first signs that the soil’s run out of nutrients, often appearing before other symptoms like yellowing.

How to diagnose it: Think about your how you’ve cared for the plant over time. When did you last repot? Have you ever fed this plant with liquid fertiliser? Is the compost very dark and dense with a dusty texture rather than the loose texture of fresh mix? Old, degraded compost that has compacted over time is going to be lacking in nutrients and have problems with its drainage and air flow. A white or pale crust on the surface of the soil or around the rim of the point shows fertiliser salts has built up from the tap water, which is a separate but related sign that the soil needs some attention.

What to do: If the plant is also root bound (check by taking it out) repot it in fresh compost – this solves the nutrient and soil problem together. If the pot size is still right but the compost is old and depleted then repot into fresh mix in the same pot. Make sure you’re feeding it regularly: a balanced liquid houseplant fertiliser at half the recommended strength every four weeks through the growing season (spring through late summer) will give it the nutrients it needs without the risk of over fertilisation. Do not feed it immediately after repotting – wait four to six weeks for the roots to settle down before you resume.

Reason 6: Temperature Stress or Cold Drafts

06 The plant is too cold or exposed to temperature fluctuations

Peace lilies are tropical plants that like the warmth to stay at a certain point – typically 18 to 27 degrees Celsius (65 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit). They don’t like cold drafts, the temperature fluctuating and temperatures below about 15 degrees Celsius (59 degrees Fahrenheit). In the cold the plant metabolism slows down a lot: enzyme activity that is responsible for the growth process slows, roots take up water and nutrients less efficiently and the plant sort of downshifts into a lower state of energy. A peace lily thats near a drafty window, a door that opens to the outside or an air conditioner may be getting stressed from the cold in a way you can’t see – especially in the winter when cold drafts from windows can be an issue even in a heated room.

How to diagnose it: Check where the plant is sitting and what’s nearby. Hold a damp hand near to windows, walls and doors on a cold day – you’ll feel cold air clearly if there’s a draft. Make a note if the stopped growth is worse in winter or in rooms that get cooler at night. Look for symptoms of damage from the cold that usually come with temperature stress: sudden leaf drop, brown patches that appear quickly instead of than developing gradually or leaves on one side of the plant looking worse than the other (the side facing the cold). You can buy room thermometers for cheap and they’re surprisingly useful for understanding what temperatures a plant is experiencing.

What to do: Move the plant away from any source of cold – drafty windows, doors and air conditioners etc. In the winter move windowsill plants slightly away from the glass at night or use a layer of cardboard that goes between the pot and window as some very basic insulation. Also keep plants away from radiators – the hot, dry air directly above a heat source is as stressful as cold drafts, just in the opposite direction. The best position is in a warm part of the room away from both cold drafts and heat sources. Once in appropriate temperatures you’ll see the growth resume within a few weeks.

Reason 7: Underwatering Over an Extended Period

07 Chronic underwatering has depleted the plant’s resources

Acute underwatering – missing a watering and letting the plant wilt dramatically – is something peace lilies recover from quickly and completely once they get water again. But chronic underwatering – consistently giving the plant too little water over many months, keeping the plant always slightly dry – has a cumulative effect on plants health that recovery from is much slower.

A plant that’s been chronically underwatered has smaller roots that work less efficiently, less chlorophyll and fewer stored resources. It’s not in crisis in a way you can see but it’s been running on empty for long enough that it has nothing left to use for new growth.

How to diagnose it: Chronic underwatering is tricky to diagnose because the plant may look fairly normal – not very wilted, not particularly yellow – just stalled. The main signs: the soil dries out very quickly after watering (within a day or two), the pot feels very light when you pick it up, the compost is away from the edges of the pot (showing it has shrunk) and the tips of the leaves have got brown, crispy edges from stress. Take the plant out and look at the roots – chronically underwatered roots are often thin and may have dry brown tips.

What to do: First, rehydrate the root ball properly. If the compost has become hydrophobic – so dry that water runs straight down the gap between the soil and pot without being absorbed – then bottom water the plant by putting the pot in a tray of water for 30 to 45 minutes until the compost has absorbed enough moisture from below. Then get into the habit of watering more consistently: water when the top inch of the compost is dry instead of waiting until the plant wilts or the compost is very dry. Peace lilies want consistent moisture, not being drenched then a very long drought. When the watering gets better the plant’s resources gradually rebuild and new growth should be appear again within a couple of months.

Reason 8: Recent Repotting Shock or Other Stress

08 The plant is recovering from a significant disturbance

A peace lily that has recently been repotted, moved to a new spot, divided or disturbed in some way will often pause all its growth for a period while it re-establishes. This is not a sign that anything is wrong – it’s the plant doing exactly what it should be doing.

Repotting disturbs the roots and stops them from being able to take up water and nutrients for a period (it’s only temporary). Moving it to a new location exposes the plant to different light, temperature and humidity that it needs to adjust to.

The plant’s energy goes into adapting and reestablishing its roots instead of new leaves and so growth stops or slows until that process is complete.

How to diagnose it: Timing is everything here. If growth has stopped after a specific event – a repotting, moving house, a big change in where it’s positioned or a period of stress like overwatering or pest infestation that has since been resolved – post stress recovery is the most likely explanation. The plant should otherwise look fine: not getting worse, not showing new symptoms, just not producing new growth yet. Recovery time varies with the how severe the stress was – a simple repotting might pause growth for two to four weeks, while recovery from root rot damage can take several months.

What to do: Mostly just wait. Post stress recovery in peace lilies resolves on its own given stable conditions. Keep the plant in good light, water it correctly, don’t feed for at least four to six weeks after repotting or other disturbances (fertiliser applied to stressed or re-establishing roots does more harm than good) and resist the urge to do anything else. The most common mistake at this stage is doing too much you think will help – moving the plant again, repotting again, trying a different feed – which will only reset the recovery each time. Pick the right position and the right care then leave the plant alone to do its work. New growth appearing is the signal that re-establishment is complete.

Working Through the List

If your peace lily isn’t growing and you’re not sure which of these eight reasons applies the best way to approach it is to work through them in order of likelihood rather than trying everything at once.

Start with light – it’s the most common cause and the easiest to check. Use the shadow test described in Reason 1 and be honest about what it tells you.

If the light is good enough the move on to checking the is soil moist and the roots are in good condition to rule out overwatering or root bound. Then think about timing – has the growth slowed since autumn or has the plant never grown since you got it?

If it’s the seasons doesn’t explain it look at how you’ve cared for the plant to see if it could be a lack of nutrients, think about the plant’s position for temperature issues and maybe even watering habits for signs of chronic underwatering. Lastly think about whether anything significant has happened to the plant recently that might explain why it’s paused.

In most cases one cause stands out clearly once you’re looking for it. And in most cases addressing that one cause is enough to get the plant growing again.

Peace lilies are tough and will respond to an implement in their conditions quickly – a plant that has been stalled for months in poor conditions can get back to growing leaves after four to six weeks of being moved to better light, or repotted into fresh compost, or the temperature is made more appropriate.

I had a peace lily on a shelf in a north facing hallway for eighteen months that produced zero new leaves. It looked fine – not dying but doing next to nothing.

The moment I moved it three feet to a spot near an east facing window at the end of the hall it gave me four new leaves over the following two months. It wasn’t sick or root bound, nor was it being watered poorly.

It just needed more light than I’d given it and had been sat there waiting for eighteen months for it’s conditions to improve. So it’s not a huge shock that once those conditions did improve it made up for lost time fast.

That’s the peace lily in a nutshell. Patient and do communicate with you once you know what to look for. And once it’s in the right place and getting what it needs it’ll be an excellent plant to you.

Keep Growing Your Green Thumb 🌱

Since you're learning to keep your peace lily growing the next step is mastering another common issue!

Next Up: 7 Reasons your Peace Lily isn’t Flowering (and What to Do)

8 Reasons Your Peace Lily Isn’t Growing