If your Monstera isn’t growing properly it’s natural to start to get a little concerned. You’ve put in the effort and feel like you’ve done everything right, so why isn’t it responding.
After more years than I can count of looking after houseplants I’ve seen pretty much every Monstera problem you can think of. And there are a lot.
So I’m going to help you figure out why your Monstera isn’t growing. I’ll take you through each reason why it could be struggling and how to fix it. By the end you’ll be all set to get your Monstera thriving fully.
Understanding Your Monstera Plant
You probably had such high hopes when you first brought your Monstera plant home. And then when it doesn’t do much or refuses to grow it’s easy to think it’s simply being stubborn. But it’s probably trying to tell you something.
Monstera deliciosa plants come from the tropical rainforests of Southern Mexico and Panama. Out there they grow like crazy, climbing up trees and developing huge fenestrated leaves.
But in our homes? It’s a very different story.
One of my first Monsteras sat doing absolutely nothing for 6 months before I figured out what was wrong with it.
Once you get the hang of it though you find that Monsteras are actually pretty straightforward. In their natural habitat they receive dappled sunlight through the forest canopy, a consistent amount of humidity and plenty of organic matter.
They’re also natural climbers and in the wild can reach 60+ feet tall. So it’s hardly surprising they don’t thrive when we leave them in a little 6 inch pot!
When a Monstera stops growing it’s essentially gone into survival mode. Which may sound a bit dramatic. But thankfully they only need a few small tweaks to get them back into growth mode.
I’ve seen stalled Monsteras put out three new leaves in a month once you give them what they really need.
So before we get into what might be wrong, remember this: Monsteras have growth spurts. They’re at their most active growth from spring through early fall, and they might appear dormant during winter. So if it’s December and your plant isn’t pushing out new leaves there’s a good chance that’s completely normal.
14 Reasons Your Monstera Isn’t Growing
1. Not Enough Light
I distinctly remember a friend of mine who had a struggling Monstera. When I finally saw it I found it was sitting in a corner about 8 feet from a north facing window. And with that the mystery was solved. It’s as simple as this – Monsteras are not low light plants.
The single biggest reason for slow Monstera growth is not giving them enough light. They need bright, indirect light to thrive.
A good way to think of it is remembering their natural environment. In the rainforest they would get lots of dappled sunlight. So you need to recreate that in your home. Otherwise without enough light photosynthesis slows down dramatically.
Signs of insufficient light:
- Small new leaves
- Long spaces between leaves (leggy growth)
- Slow or no growth
- Fewer or no leaf fenestrations (holes)
- Leaning toward light sources
The fix: Move your Monstera to a brighter spot. 3 to 6 feet from an east or west facing window is perfect. South facing windows work too but use a sheer curtain to filter the strongest midday sun.
Avoid direct sun though as it can burn the leaves. If you don’t get much natural light in your home then you can try a grow light. LED grow lights are a good alternative and work well. Positioning them about 12-18 inches above the plant for 8 to 10 hours a day should be enough.
2. Watering Wrong
I came close to killing my first Monstera with kindness – aka drowning it with water every few days. I learned a valuable lesson from though: Monstera like to dry out between waterings.
Overwatering will cause just as many problems as underwatering. The rainforest where Monstera evolved has lots of rainfall, yes, but also lots of drier spells too. When soil stays constantly wet the roots of a Monstera can’t get any oxygen and so begin to rot.
Signs of watering issues:
- Overwatering: Yellow leaves (especially older ones), mushy stems, moldy soil
- Underwatering: Curling leaves, dry crispy edges, soil pulling away from pot sides
The fix: Water your Monstera when the top 2 to 3 inches of soil feels dry to the touch. For most homes this will be about once a week during the growing season. But a little less in the winter.
Always check the soil yourself rather than keeping to a strict schedule. If you water without checking first you’re asking for trouble. If you’re not sure about how wet the soil is then use a moisture meter. They’re only about $10 online and worth every penny for recovering from watering issues.
3. Pot Size
If you’ve chosen a huge pot for your Monstera to grow into you may actually be slowing it’s growth. I’ve seen this mistake dozens of times (and made it myself).
When a pot is too large then any excess soil will hold onto moisture for too long and this can lead to root rot. Monsteras surprisingly prefer to be a little root bound. It triggers blooming and faster growth.
But while they like to be slightly root bound too much is also going to hurt them. If the roots are circling the pot coming out of the drainage holes then your Monstera will probably struggle to take up enough water and nutrients.
The fix: Repot your Monstera into a pot or container that’s only 2 to 3 inches larger in diameter than its root ball. On top of that you must use a pot with drainage holes and well draining soil.
If it’s really root bound then gently loosen the roots before repotting it. Once your Monstera is properly established then repotting it every 2-3 years should be enough.
4. Soil Quality
Standard potting mix from the garden center usually isn’t good enough for Monsteras. One of mine struggled massively in dense, moisture retaining soil that suffocated it’s roots.
What Monsteras need is well draining soil that is as similar as possible to the soil they would have in their natural environment. Soil is so important for Monstera as it gives them the oxygen and moisture that their roots need. Getting it wrong will almost certainly mean your Monsteras suffer or don’t grow at all.
My Monstera soil mix:
- 2 parts good quality potting soil
- 1 part orchid bark
- 1 part perlite
- 1/2 part horticultural charcoal
The fix: If your Monstera’s soil stays wet for more than a week after watering or has become compacted then it’s time to repot with fresh, appropriate soil.
The mix above will give your Monstera great drainage but still retain enough moisture too. When repotting it gently remove as much of the old soil as possible without damaging the roots.
5. Humidity
Most homes hover around 30-40% humidity. Bt Monsteras really like 60-80%. Learning this was a big game changer for my kitchen Monstera that no matter what I did would not unfurl new leaves properly until I sorted the humidity for it.
In low humidity environments Monsteras grow a lot more slowly and struggle to get the splits and holes in their leaves we love them for.
Signs of low humidity:
- Brown, crispy leaf edges
- Leaves that have trouble unfurling
- Curling leaves
- Stunted growth
The fix: The most effective solution is using a humidifier near your plant. I place mine about 3 to 4 feet away to avoid direct misting on the leaves.
You can also group plants together as they create their own little microclimate and support each other. Pebble trays with water under the pot also works well. And probably the easiest one is to just put your Monstera in naturally humid areas like bathrooms with windows.
Misting is popular too but as far as I’m concerned it only works temporarily. I’ve actually found it most helpful for unfurling new leaves.
6. Temperature Stress
The one time I put my Monstera near a drafty window it stopped growing completely until I moved it back. They absolutely hate drafts and the cold. This is due to them originating in the tropics.
Monsteras grow best in consistent temperatures between 65-85°F (18-29°C). Growth slows dramatically below 60°F (15°C) and you’ll start to see leaf damage below 50°F (10°C).
Common temperature issues:
- Proximity to air conditioning vents
- Cold drafts from windows or doors
- Sitting against cold windows in winter
- Extreme temperature fluctuations
The fix: Keep your Monstera away from drafty areas, heating vents and air conditioners. If you see it’s getting cold by a window at night then move it or give it some insulation during the winter months. Monsteras will grow consistently if they have a consistent temperature.
7. Nutrient Deficiencies
Like us, plants need proper food to live (or in their case, grow). Your Monstera might be sitting in soil that doesn’t have enough nutrients. Especially if it hasn’t been repotted or fertilized in over a year.
Monsteras need nitrogen for leaf growth, phosphorus for root development, and potassium for their overall health. Micronutrients like magnesium and iron are also a big part of helping them grow fully.
Signs of nutrient deficiencies:
- Pale or yellowing leaves (nitrogen deficiency)
- Purple tinges on leaves (phosphorus deficiency)
- Yellow leaf edges (potassium deficiency)
- Overall slow growth
The fix: During the growing season (spring through early fall), fertilize your Monstera monthly using a balanced houseplant fertilizer diluted to half the recommended strength. I use a 10-10-10 liquid fertilizer but really any balanced formula works well.
Don’t fertilize in fall and winter when growth naturally slows. If you fear your Monstera has severe deficiencies you could report it with fresh soil rather than trying to use fertilizer to fix it.
8. Pest Problems
Sometimes the culprit is tiny but mighty. I’ve gone in to battle with spider mites on my Monstera that were nearly invisible but wreaking total havoc on it’s growth.
The most common pests that affect Monsteras are spider mites, scale, mealybugs and thrips. They will suck the sap from your plant, literally draining it of the energy it needs to grow.
Signs of pest infestation:
- Tiny webs between leaves (spider mites)
- White cottony spots (mealybugs)
- Small brown bumps on stems or leaf undersides (scale)
- Stippled or silvery patches on leaves (thrips)
- Sticky residue on leaves or surrounding surfaces
The fix: Isolate your plant immediately to prevent any of the pests from spreading. For mild infestations wiping down the leaves with a solution of water and a few drops of mild dish soap should be enough.
For more serious cases use insecticidal soap or neem oil. Make sure you treat all parts of the plant though, including the undersides of the leaves (pests love to hide there). Repeat whatever treatments you go with every 7 to 10 days for at least three applications to break the pest life cycle.
9. Lack of Support
In nature Monsteras climb up trees – they’re what botanists call “hemiepiphytes.” Without something to climb on or up their growth pattern changes and will often slow down.
I remember how one of my Monstera’s growth rapidly improved after I added a moss pole. The aerial roots attached to the pole which signaled to the plant it could grow larger leaves.
The fix: Give your Monstera some sort of support structure. Something like a moss pole, coco coir pole or trellis will all work.
Gently tie the main stems to the support with soft plant ties or velcro plant strips. Mist the pole from time to time if it’s made of moss or coco coir as it will encourage the aerial roots to attach. As the plant grows up the support you should begin to see larger leaves with more dramatic fenestrations.
10. Root Issues
What’s happening below the soil often explains what’s happening above it. Root problems can result in complete stop in growth.
Root rot from overwatering is the most common issue. But compacted soil, damage during repotting or even circling roots in pot that’s too small can all cause problems.
Signs of root problems:
- Foul smell from soil
- Soft, mushy, or black roots (healthy roots should be firm and white or tan)
- Plant becoming loose in the pot
- Suddenly wilting despite moist soil
The fix: If you suspect root rot then start by taking your Monstera out of its pot and inspect the roots. Trim away any soft, mushy or black roots using sterilized scissors. Treat the remaining roots with hydrogen peroxide solution (1 part 3% hydrogen peroxide to 2 parts water) before repotting it in fresh, well draining soil. If your Monstera is really affected by root rot then you may need to propagate healthy sections as a last resort.
11. Age and Maturity Factors
Sometimes your expectations might be the issue. Juvenile Monsteras (under 2-3 years old) will often have very little or no fenestrations at all. They will also grow slower at this age too.
It’s understandable to want and be expecting your Monstera to get those huge fenestrated leaves. Even more so when you feel like your plant is old enough. But you tend to get those leaves from plants that are over 5 years old. My Monstera took three years to develop its first split leaves and that is completely normal.
The fix: Patience! Continue doing all the right things and giving your Monstera the right care. It will mature at its own pace. Your focus should be on make it it’s growing and healthy rather than rushing it’s fenestrations.
Young plants that receive the best care will mature faster and develop those characteristic splits and holes when they’re ready.
12. Seasonal Changes
I once panicked when my thriving Monstera suddenly stopped putting out new leaves in October. That was until I remembered that it’s supposed to slow down in fall and winter.
Monsteras naturally grow more slowly or even become dormant during fall and winter when the light levels drop. This is their natural cycle and nothing to be worried about.
The fix: Adjust your care routine seasonally. During winter:
- Water less frequently (soil takes longer to dry)
- Stop fertilizing until spring
- Maintain humidity (indoor heating can dry air significantly)
- Clean leaves to maximize light absorption
Expect growth to pick up again when days start lengthening in the spring.
13. Recent Changes or Moves
Monsteras, like most plants, are creatures of habit. When I rearranged my living room and moved my Monstera to a new spot it reacted by sulking for nearly two months before it began growing again.
So any significant change – a new location in your home, repotting or even rotating the plant – can trigger a pause in growth while the plant readjusts to whatever you’ve done to it.
The fix: After moving or repotting your Monstera try to be extra consistent with it’s care and avoid any more changes. Keep its light stable, watering consistent and humidity level for it to feel happiest.
It should resume growing again within a few weeks to two months as the plant acclimates. Avoid fertilizing right after repotting too as this can stress any fresh roots.
14. Outgrowing Current Conditions
Sometimes your plant has simply reached the maximum size it can in its current environment. I’ve seen perfectly happy Monsteras hit a growth ceiling based on available light, pot size or space constraints.
If your Monstera is mature, healthy and receiving good care but has stopped getting bigger then there’s a good chance it has reached equilibrium with its environment. Basically it’s got as big as it’s going to get without you changing something.
The fix: Youll have to look at whether you can improve the limiting factors. Would a sunnier location help with more growth? Is a larger pot needed? If you want your plant to grow significantly bigger you may need to make more dramatic changes to its growing conditions. Otherwise enjoy your plant at its current size and work on keeping it healthy rather than trying for additional growth.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take for a Monstera to produce a new leaf?
If growing conditions are right then during spring and summer a healthy Monstera can produce a new leaf every 4-6 weeks. During the fall and winter this might slow to one leaf every 2-3 months or even total dormancy. Young, established plants often grow faster than very mature ones.
Why does my Monstera grow leaves without holes?
This is usually due to age, light levels or humidity. Young Monsteras (under 2-3 years) grow leaves without fenestrations as standard. For mature plants though then insufficient light is the most common cause of leaves without splits. Low humidity can also prevent proper leaf development. Work on improving these and be patient – the next leaves should show improvement.
Should I cut off old leaves to encourage new growth?
Only remove leaves that are yellowing, damaged or diseased. Healthy leaves, even if they’re small or don’t have any fenestrations, are still performing photosynthesis and contributing to your plant’s energy reserves. Cutting healthy leaves can actually slow growth as you’re reducing the plant’s ability to produce energy.
My Monstera is growing, but the new leaves are smaller than the old ones. Why?
This usually means there’s something lacking – particularly light. Other factors include seasonal changes (winter growth is often smaller), recent stress from reporting or a lack of nutrients. Make sure your plant is getting bright indirect light, you’re watering it enough and giving it regular fertilizating during the growing season.
How can I make my Monstera grow faster?
Create conditions similar to the rainforest: bright indirect light (the most important factor), 60-80% humidity, temperatures between 70-85°F (21-29°C), consistent watering when the top 2-3 inches of soil dry out, monthly fertilization during growing season and a support structure to climb. Do all of that and how much it grows can double or triple.
Final Thoughts
When it comes to Monsteras not growing they’re surprisingly good at letting you know what’s wrong, providing you know what to look for. Most growth issues come down to light, water or a combination of the two. Get them right and you’re 80% of the way there.
Remember that no plan grows in a totally linear pattern. There will be ups and downs even if you do everything right.
Your Monstera might do nothing for weeks and then suddenly unfurl three leaves in a month. This is completely normal.
You just need to keep providing consistent care and watching for any subtle changes that show something is off and needs adjusting.
The reward for your patience? A stunning Monstera plant that can become a centerpiece in your home. My oldest Monstera is now pushing 7 feet tall with leaves bigger than dinner plates. It’s definitely been worth every moment of troubleshooting in those early years.
If you’re still struggling after goign through all the issues here then there are some more steps you can take. Get a clear photos of your plant (including close-ups of any problem areas) and share it with a local plant group or nursery. Sometimes an experienced eye can spot issues that might not be obvious.